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SPS颜色生长心得


SPS颜色生长心得
原文
英文原文 Please note: This information is based on a very limited database, controls and analysis was based on a 130 tanks using various lighting sources, tank size, coral dna, etc. There are so many variations amongst different tanks that just one source isnt enough as an absolute determining factor for coral colorization.

This is merely to provide a direction to go in, and not a absolute guarantee of success. The basis for testing was using the zeovit guide as a baseline for supplimentation with trial and error.

The analysis was to satisfy my own curiosities of getting full blow purple acroporas from tip to base using T5 lighting.

More information is required, if you have comments please PM me your tanks information, comments and pictures of your primarily coral colors (yellow, green, red, blue and purple).


SPS Colorization

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Over the past several months I have really worked on “tweaking” colors and what is needed to get certain colors. I have done my own testing as well as seen a lot of others tanks and what they have done to achieve certain colors. I think I finally have a basic map for those who are interested.

Please note: I am assuming that you meet the minimum suggested standards to keeping SPS; strong lighting, calcium at the appropriate levels, strong skimming and live rock. * Also note, P04 seems less of a factor than perviously thought, many really colorful SPS tanks have PO4 readings in the 0.15 range (Hanna).


Yellows

Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.

Greens

Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).

* Greens seem a little harder than orignally exspected, they seem to clash alot with the blue supplimentations of Potassium and you end up with an off green/yellow coral (shimmer).

Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You'll notice an Iron deficiency if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).

Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.

Blues and some purples

This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol’s solution (Zeovit PIF), ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don’t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less bright. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer (back off the Iodide, dont increase Iron, just stop).

Reds/Pinks and some Purples

Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (K, not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much. (note: Oceanic is extremely unbalanced, I do a mix for 50% with another salt such as IO).

For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to silver/grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air (xxxx in or when they have been touched by your hand). Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency are when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is receeding or lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don’t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.

Purples

Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.

First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.

From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another’s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.

Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).

Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.

These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.

Please comment on your experiences, if was very difficult to get information from others on coral colorization.
译文
水族驿站翻译 SPS颜色生长心得(翻译)

请注意,以下信息基于非常有限的数据,运行和分析基于130个缸,用不同的灯源,不同尺寸的缸,不同的珊瑚等等。在不同的缸还有很多方面的变异因素,并不因某一因素而确定珊瑚颜色的形成。这不仅仅提供一个路径去研究,也不是绝对成功的方法。测试的基础是在用zeovit 基础用法上,不断反复试验添加剂的不同添加方法。在用T5灯光下,A属角顶端的蓝色好像吹出来一样的试验让我的好奇心得到极大的满足。很多信息都需要,如果你有注解,请pm我你的缸的信息,还有你首批珊瑚颜色的照片和注解。
让sps变成彩色

在过去的几个月,我已经可以随心所欲制造出某种颜色。我已经在很多其它的缸里面验证过我的试验,我想我最后有一个大家都感兴趣的结论。请注意:我要求做试验的缸有以下最低要求:强劲的灯光、恰当的钙含量,强劲的化氮、活石。虽然po4在过去的想法中,是对颜色影响很少的一个因素,但在我试验的缸中,po4应该保持在0.15的范围(hanna)

黄色

主要关系是硝酸盐和磷酸盐的浓度。当然,所有sps的颜色都和硝酸盐和磷酸盐有关系,所以我从最简单的颜色开始,黄色。黄色是你的一条基准线,通过黄色,你可以知道你缸的很多状况,什么是需要添加的,什么是已经过量添加的。硝酸盐和磷酸盐的降低最为重要,无论通过何种技术,硝酸盐、磷酸盐驱除器,还是通过DSB减少硝酸盐和磷酸盐,加活性炭、换水,只要你是养sps就必须降低硝酸盐和磷酸盐,我建议你一开始养还色的角,如果你能够保持黄色几个月,你就应该尝试其它品种。



绿色

绿色是第二种容易keep的颜色。想达到更浓的颜色,可以通过添加铁浓缩物(kent我比较常用,虽然铁就是铁)你必须非常小心铁的添加,因为添加铁会加速海藻的生长。这就是为何你要先养黄色sps的重要性。你的硝酸盐和磷酸盐必须很低。绿色要表现出原色有点难度,他通常会因为添加增加蓝色的钾添加剂而受到冲击而变成绿色和黄色之间。另外,我用黄色作为蓝色和绿色的指示色。你会注意到,如果铁缺乏,那么你的绿色就会变成褐色。我开始添加铁每50加仑添加1滴每周2次,然后注意观察发生的情况,颜色变化,角的生长,知道我的黄色角出现一个绿色的微荧光,我不会让它变成明显的绿色,只要呈现黄绿色就是了。请注意,过量添加导致组织暗黑化,那么证明你添加了太多的铁。另外一个过量添加的现象就是藻类增多,请马上停止添加,必要时换水。

蓝色和紫色

我发觉增加蓝色的添加剂也有可能增加紫色。增加蓝色、紫色的添加剂是碘化钾浓缩液或者zeovit PIF,ESV碘化钾浓缩液同样有效。不要随便添加其它只含钾的物质,因为有所不同的。当蓝色系sps变得缺乏明亮的时候,用黄色珊瑚作为指示标准,当黄色sps变成绿色光亮的时候,停止添加,这时候不要添加铁,只需要停止添加就是。



红色、粉红色

首先,Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys 和 Seriatoporas.类的红色和粉红色,添加剂是钾(并非碘化钾)。如果你用一个高钾盐,例如Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro牌子,并有规律进行换水,并不需要额外添加钾(注意,Oceanic是极端不平衡的,我通常会和IO盐对半混合用)。在添加过程中,你能够用瓦片类sps作为添加量度的指示标。当瓦片呈现出缓慢生长速度,展现出银灰色,就应该添加了。还有另外一些缺钾的表现就是珊瑚触手萎缩、颜色变浅、粉红色变成浅棕色,还有就是从sps底部开始呈现补丁状的组织白化萎缩。过量钾添加会导致sps顶端烧,烧顶不要和生长点混淆,烧顶是白色但没有触手的。


紫色


可能,以我经验来看,紫色是所有sps中最难调出来的,因为变数包括了几种。首先是水的透明度,意味着要用活性炭或者滤袋。我用生物过滤通常取得比较好的效果。例如海鞘、海面和其他过滤性的生物。Zeo的sp,可以用在任何系统,可以用来喂食海绵。海绵这种滤食生物对过滤水质起到了很大的作用。我注意到的是,增加水质澄清度,首先会影响sps顶端,但并不是影响整根sps。我曾经看到nana和valida有很靓的紫色顶端,但身体是褐色的。而我看到其他缸,但其他参数符合要求的时候,整根nana和valida是紫色的,从基部到顶部。第二个因素,就是灯光。从我的观察来看。紫色喜欢420-440nm的光谱,这些光谱存在于20000k的金属hqi。在我曾经见过拥有最靓的紫色sps缸的灯光是有440nm的蓝色荧光灯管(ATI 蓝管+Giessman 荧光管)或者20000k的Radium 或者xm hqi胆。第三,添加剂例如碘化物或者钾。再次提醒,注意观察你的绿色珊瑚必须呈现绿色,黄色珊瑚呈现黄色。蓝色珊瑚应该深蓝而明亮。碘化物能够帮助你治疗sps顶端烧。






这些仅仅是我的观察、想法和试验,我坚信在将来,有更多的因素被发现和增加。请注重你的观察,并解释你的观察现象,数据对于推动我们前进十分重要。




如果你觉得非常难让珊瑚呈现颜色,请随时与我们分享经验。


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